Here is a pic from the Stew-Mac site, showing how they use this press over the body/heel area:
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 1:11 am ] |
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Hesh, how does it work on the neck-to-heal transition? I've never found a good way to press frets in this area becase I can't get a good caul to work in that curve. If it worked for you, is there any chance you could take a pic of the process? Thanks Paul |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 1:19 am ] |
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Paul, I think what Hesh did, at last this is how I understood it was fret the board (before) it was glued down to the neck. |
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| Author: | russ [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 1:42 am ] |
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Here is a pic from the Stew-Mac site, showing how they use this press over the body/heel area:
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| Author: | j.Brown [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 1:52 am ] |
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Is there a way to use the press it after the neck is attached to the body for those frets on the top of the guitar? |
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| Author: | old man [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 2:05 am ] |
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I believe that is what this press is made for. Pressing all the other frets is easier with their regular fret press arbor or using the drill press. Ron |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 2:13 am ] |
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I know I may be in the minority, but I REALLY struggle getting the fretboard dead level when I attach the neck to the body, therefore, I always attach the neck/fretboard to the box, then level the fb surface, and then fret it. How are you guys getting a flat fretboard surface prior to mating it with the body? I sure would rather fret the board and dress the ends before gluing it to the neck, that would remove a lot of damage potent ional to the box. |
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 2:28 am ] |
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Lance, I couldn't. Which is why I've changed my methods. I used to press them in with an arbor press on a flat board. I could do a board in about 30 minutes. Beveling the ends was super easy, leveling and crowning was super easy as well. Then I'd get the board on and notice a hump at the neck joint and I'd have to re level and re crown. Often taking a LOT of fret off at frets 13, 14, and 15. So now I glue the board to the neck level it all, remove the neck, fret it, re install the neck, level and crown. It's much slower but it's managable. I'm still having struggles with the heal curve area but I've got a pretty good idea of a jig I'm going to make for that. Hesh, just curious, did you level and crown prior to gluing the board on the neck? If so, be sure to re check for flatness when you get it glued. |
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 3:00 am ] |
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You are getting more lucky that I in that catagory. I'm glad it's working out for you but one word of caution: if you end up with one that isn't flat, you are doing all the leveling with the frets rather than the board. So you are taking life away from those frets and reducing the possibility of a fret dress in the future. But it may not be an issue for you as it sounds like things are working out well. |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 8:14 am ] |
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This is one of the big reasons why my necks are attached before finihing. That way my fb is as straight as they come and the frets are perfect. I know that it could be installed and leveled after finishing... but I am such a klutz that something is bound to get dinged .... so I take the safe road. I have a Jaws-II (and an original Jaws). I go back and forth on whether I like pressing better or worse than hammering. Currently I am in the "prefering to press" mode. The Jaws II did a great job putting the frets in on the fb extension. It is worth the investment. I glue in each fret and leave the jaws set for about 15 minutes before moving on to the next fret. |
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